ALPINISM 2005

News From K-2 Base Camp

2005-06-28T06:39:00.000+05:00

By Asem Mustafa Awan

Islamabad --- The team Norway for making their first ascent on the peak has established Camp 2 at 6800 meters and few went up to 7000 meters and are back at Base Camp at 5000 meters for rest.

Bjoern Sekkesaeter in Norway in his message said,” The team is doing fine and few as part of acclimatization have managed to go up to 7000 meters and at present are in base camp for rest.

Thirty-year old Rolf Bae is the team leader and ace in the team is Cecilie Skog who aspires to be first Norwegian woman on top of K-2 at 8611 meters. The expedition is taking South South East Spur and is the first team to reach K-2 in the current season.

Meanwhile Mick Parker member of the US expedition is on his way to K-2 base camp. The others have already made it to the base camp and the team is attempting Magic Line or possibly other routes depending on the snow conditions.

Fabrizio Zangrilli leads the expedition and other members in the team include Hamesh Robertson, David Schipper, Fred Barth and Bill Pearson. Bill Pearson has already climbed K-2 and if he does that again he will be the second man to do it with out using oxygen. A Nepalese Sherpa has climbed K-2 twice besides Czech ace climber who is the first one to do that. The Sherpa used oxygen in the second time.

German Team Leaves for Charakusa Valley

2005-06-22T06:39:00.000+05:00

By Asem Mustafa Awan

Islamabad---They are seven Germans including a young lady and they are extreme sport climbers clearing grades up to 8A in sport climbing. Jan Mersch a professional mountain guide is leading the expedition that left Tuesday for climbing the unattempted spires in Charakusa Valley.

The expedition has two peaks in below 6500 categories for the expedition Drifka 6447 meters has been climbed a few times while Farol 6370 will have its first maiden attempt by the German climbers who have climbed in Alps and South and North America.

Jan Mersch 35, has been to Pakistan a few times and has made unsuccessful bids on Ogre besides Christoph Kruis 44, who is the second leader of the team who attempted the same peak in 1988 and returned from 6200 meters due to bad weather.

Peter Anzenberger 23, member of the expedition said, “ Sport climbing is different as compared to real climbing as real climbing has a greater element of risk.” Peter made second ascent of Arwa Spire in Gua, India which offered a 1000 meter of vertical climb in 2004.

Doerte Pietron 24 year old is the only lady climber in the team said , “ I have mostly climbed in Alps and South America and in North America and climbing mixed terrain on hard routes. She was an inspiration when she picked up an over 70 kilo sack on her back to load in the bus which was carrying them to the Northern Areas.

Franz Mitterer 18, is the youngest member in the team and while the highest climb made in the group is from Micahel Schafroth 37 who climbed Nanga Parbat 8125 meters in 2004. The expedition is also carrying ropes which they will fix in the difficult portion of the climb.“We will not fix the entire route as it all depends on weather and snow condition and we will see when we reach there,” said a member.

Other members of the team include Christoph Hummel 26, Bjoern Lellmann 24, Michael Duerr 25, Benjamin Weis 23, Sebestian Wolfgruber 21 and Fridolin Baur 27. Michael Schafroth and Fridolin Baur are the cameramen with the team. The expedition will fly back home at the end of July.

Norwegians for Noshaq

2005-06-19T07:39:00.000+05:00

By Asem Mustafa Awan

Islamabad--They are all explorers and inspired by father of mountaineering in Hindukush, Professor Arne Naess, three Norwegians left for Noshaq 7492 meters Friday the peak that borders Pakistan and Afghanistan.

All are coming for the first time to Pakistan aspire to see and meet and study culture of the region which has been visited by very few and they all give credit to Profess Arne who is alive and very down to earth scholar of philosophy.

The peak itself has been climbed very few times and has two approaches a moderate snow slope in Afghanistan and tough technical terrain in Pakistan.

The peak was last climbed in 2001 as a part of Peace expedition and prior to that since 1978 it had no summit at all because of Soviet invasion.

Glenn Seljaasen (33) is the expedition leader and the other members include Steinar Haldorsen (30) who will have his birthday July 23 on the way down and he hopes that they all are on top of the summit before that.

“We want to be on plane back home as with summit day falling on my birthday the plane for sure will go without us,” said Steinar Haldorsen.

David Baum 30 is the third member with the team who give details of the peak and its terrain.

“We want to see and meet the people and feel what it is like to be in Hindukush as Norwegians were the first in the region for exploration and the Trichmir ascent in the evidence of that,” said David.

Team leader Glenn it was 1950 when history was made and the flags of Norway, Pakistan and United Nations were hoisted on top of the peak added with the first colour movie in which the cameraman who was not a climber went as high as 6400 meters for the shoot.

World records were made and why we say of Trichmir as we want to see the peak in the morning from higher elevation that’s from Noshaq as it our dream.”

“Noshaq has Base Camp in Pakistan but summit is in Afghanistan and its long walk after climbing the technical portion in the lower side of the peak in Pakistan.”

Its uncharted terrain and we have a photo and a chart to guide us on the peak and very little of information as what actually is there,” the expedition leader.

More details when we come back as this year there has been a lot of snow and we don’t know what the peak is going to offer.”

Two attempts in the last five years were made but none of the expeditions completed the route in 2000 Danish and New Zealand climbers made an unsuccessful attempt followed by Austrians the next year.

The base camp is at 5000 meters and the team aspires to make a bivouac at 5500 meters. It has mixed terrain both rock and ice and the hardest is between 6000 meters to 7000 meters. The approach has a lot of seracs and scree slopes but it depends on snow conditions this year.
The team will make camp 1 at 5800 meters and followed by camp 2 at 6400 meters and camp 3 at 7000 meters on snow dome.

The expedition is likely to make summit bid in the middle of July.

Update from Team Norway on K-2

The team Norway on K-2 has established camp 1 above 6000 meters and as part of their acclimatization they have spent three nights on the higher elevation and back.

The information made available from Bjorn Sekkesaeter in Norway the team is making the first ascent for Norway and are the first to reach the peak.

Rolf Bae is leading the side and Cecilie Skog has aspiration to be the first Norwegian woman on top of K-2 she has climbed Everest and Cho Oyu and K-2 summit will be her 8000 meter peak.

Norwegians Reach 6000 Meters on K-2

2005-06-10T15:54:00.000+05:00

By Asem Mustafa Awan

Norwegians first to reach K-2 Base Camp are now at 6000 meters and are carrying load according to information made available from the expedition sources. The team is making the first ascent for their country and Team Norway was the first expedition for the peak the second highest in the world with 8611 meters.

Thirty-year old Rolf Bae is leading the side and the ace climber in the lot is 30-year-old Cecilie Skog who is the first Norwegian woman to have summated Everest (North with Oxygen) and Cho Oyu in 2003. The team is taking the South South East Spur and plans to fix minimum of ropes on the mountain that has a little over 100 making it to the top.

Trym Saeland (30) is the expedition inspiration and has climbed in Pakistan before. Trym attempted Latok in 2001 and also was also here in 1999 climbing the unnamed peaks in under 6000 meter category. Sigurd Felde (33) and Oystein Stangeland (35) are the other two members of the team and Per Henry Knudsen is the Base Camp Manager.

Snow Kiting Adventure II

2005-06-01T15:28:00.000+05:00

By Asem Mustafa Awan

ISLAMABAD--Anoushka Mulgrew is 28 and she just returned from the mountains after setting a snow kiting record at 5000 meters and extreme snowboarding in Shimshal and Deosai Plains along with her team mates who form a multinational group representing various countries of Britain, France, Norway and Poland.

The seven member team visited Pakistan to explore the possibilities of having it as an extreme snow kiting destination for the extreme sportsmen and women. The team was sponsored by Ozone Kites which is the leading name in the world.

The seven member group had two projects snow kiting and extreme skiing and they did that in the two areas of Shimshal and Deosai Plains. Shimshal is the last village that borders Pakistan and China and isrenowned for the quality of its high altitude porters and climbers.

Anoushka is a professional abseiling superviser. She besides snow kiting and extreme skiing she has an unmatched love forthe horses which places her different in the group of professionals thatvisited Pakistan for the tour. Anoushka in her exclusive talks with Sports World Pakistan said, " It wasa great to be Pakistan and it was my first time.

Meeting the people and taking a closer look at their lives was anenriching experience, we were all honoured to be made so welcome and were especially impressed with the generosity, hospitality and hardiness of the Shimshalli's. Also of course it was above all amazing to have themountains for ourselves."

The team was the first group in Pakistan and spend two months in Pakistan coming early April she said, "We were all doing the snow kiting andextreme skiing by ourselves and there was none but us and it was well organized effort and we had the best of the people and a lot of experience we shared as in being there and the process of learning never ends." "It's a great feeling to snow kite up and down the mountains and thehighest I go was 5000 meters others in the team reach as high as 5500 meters and it's the highest snow kiting is done in the world," said the 28 year old horse woman.

"It's a little dangerous but with skills u learn to enjoy it a lot and it is a very popular extreme sport and the feeling is great." Answering a query she said, "One of the most memorable experience from Shimshal was the Yaks - we were there at the time that the yaks come back over the Shimshal pass to their spring pastures at Shuijerab. They were hundreds coming down from the high pastures with babies and it was an unforgettable experience.

We rode the yaks, milked them, were warmed byyak dung fires and spun rope from their tail hair. The kindness was from the herders who shared this with us. As I never saw a yak before this was even more amazing."

Anoushka left Pakistan with good memories she said , "I really lookforward to returning to Pakistan - the free sking opportunities are endless and I would love to come rock climbing and bouldering here also. I think themost striking thing of the country is the difference between the perception of people in the west and the actuality of the people here.

Many people told me not to come and that it was dangerous and I would be kidnapped or something like this! On the contrary people have been amazingly kind and honest in a way I think you cannot experience in the West. It is very humbling to experience the generosity of people who have so little compared to what we are used to."

Snow Kiting Adventure

2005-06-01T15:09:00.000+05:00

By Asem Mustafa Awan

ISLAMABAD --Seven-member team took a survey for exploring Pakistan and it turned out to be great snow kiting potential for the world as the area in Shimshal valley and Deosai plains were found ideal for the extreme sport, which is a heart throb for youth in Europe.

The team in its extreme adventure made a world record of snow kiting by taking it up and down from 5500 meters, which is the highest, the kite has gone. Felix Hentz 23 the organizer of the expedition has been to Pakistan five times and this time he came with a mission to explore the region which has so much to offer for the extreme sportsmen and women.

Felix from France in his exclusive talks with Sports World Pakistan said, “The sport is a new one and is gaining popularity with every passing day as the equipment is light and easy to carry and assemble and it gives a great sense of freedom.” “We had two projects in our two months stay in Pakistan we explore the Northern Areas and it was a great experience to go up and down on the mountains making tracks on the snow,” said Felix.

"Snow kiting is different then paragliding snow kite supports the weights as u can make a jump up and down in paragliding its your whole weight that is supported and you are in air for a longer time.”

The team also included world Sigve Botnen ranked number 2 in the world for kite snowboarding and extreme sports photographer Gus Hurst who at 35 years of age as been taking snaps for 17 years including 10 years of extreme photography of paragliders, basejumpers and extreme sportsmen and women.

Johann Civel French snow kiter also formed the team while Kamil Dabkowski from Poland was the cameraman with the team. Pakistan has a great potential as in Deosai Plains and we will be introducing the region for companies to hold an international event next year,” said Felix adding, “We believe the mountaineers in Pakistan don’t do much and extreme sportsmen and women can do it better as its liked and watched by many and mountains have but few people.” Deosai plains has gentle mountains and its vast and the wind is there and its all winds and slopes that makes snow kiting possible and Deosai and Shimshal has it all.”

The team was sponsored by Ozone Kites and had two women members Zoe Smalley 24 and Anoushka Mulgrew 28 who also went high on the mountain with the team doing snow kiting and kite snowboarding. Felix opined that Shimshal has more potential in organizing the event as its easy accessible and all it needs is few huts and no more and it would be great for the extreme sports people to come and display their skills on the slopes.

“The equipment in kite weighs only four kilos and it’s easy to pack and unpack and not much of a hassle and its great fun and freedom with winds taking you up and down the slopes,” said Felix

Czeck Nanga Parbat and K-2 Expedition

2005-05-25T08:53:00.000+05:00

By Asem Mustafa

ISLAMABAD --- Two elite Czech climbers have landed in Pakistan and have set their sights on two of the world most difficult mountains Nanga Parbat and K-2. The two climbers are part of the six member multinational team, which have members coming from Nepal and other parts of the world. The two Czech climbers aspires to make second ascent on the new route made by French Alpinist Jean Christophe Laffaile in 2003 on Diamir Face in 2003.

Radek Jarosh 41 and Peter Mashek 35 have planned to take on both the peaks falling in two big moun-tain ranges of the world. Nanga Parbat 8125 meters is called the Killer Mountain and is in the Himalayas and K-2 the world sec-ond highest peaks with 8611 meters is in Karakorum Range and is called the Savage Mountain. It is the third attempt for the two Czech climbers on the Savage Peak K-2, they made attempts on the peak from South South East Spur and from South East Abruzzi Ridge.

“We attempted K-2 in 2001 and in 2003 in 2001 we spend a night in a biouvac at 8000 meters and it was very cold and very bad weather while in 2003 we just managed 7400 meters and came down as the conditions were not good for climbing,” said Peter.

Czech climbers also holds unique distinction as they are friends of climbing great Josep Rakoncaj who is an inspiration for them as he is the only climber in the world who has climbed K-2 twice, once from Pakistan and second time from China side without using oxygen.

A Nepalese also holds the same dis-tinction but he used oxygen in making it to the summit second time from the same route in Pakistan. The two men team ended the quest of 14 8000ers for Czech Republic in 2004 when they climbed the South Face of Shishapangma in Alpine Style taking three days up and two days coming down.

“We will be climbing Nanga Parbat first and we have given our self the month of June for the attempt and then we move to Skardu for K-2 Project,” said Peter adding, “We have divided equal time for the two peaks as we wanted to do both and K-2 is our dream peak.” “We have plans to make the summit bid on Nanga Parbat in end of June as we follow Jean Christophe Laffiale Route that joins the Kinshofer Route at 7000 meters,” said Peter adding, “K-2 we will attempt from Basque Route South South East Spur and it will be late July and early August depending on the weather window.” “This year there is too much of snow so we will see and Nanga Parbat would be a challenge as the route we take has not been touched by climbers and we like the way its is and on K-2 we will see as by the time we reach the Base Camp, there will be expeditions there.” “We hope that we make ascent from Basque route and descend via Abruzzi Ridge,” said Peter.

Radek has five 8000ers summits to his name and they include Everest 1998, Kangchenjunga 2002, Broad Peak 2003, Cho Oyu Spring 2004 and Shishapangma Autumn 2004. Peter has two summits to his credit, which he climbed with Radek, and they are Broad Peak in 2003 and Shishapangma in 2004. The expedition leaves for Base Camp on Thursday (today). Other members in the team who will join at different stages include climbers from Georgia, Latvia, Switzerland and a Frenchman.

China One Step Short of Himalayan Crown

2005-05-21T15:06:00.000+05:00

By Asem Mustafa Awan

Islamabad --- They are three and together they will hoist the China flag in top of the Gasherbrum I, 8068 meters and that will mark an end to their quest of Himalayan Crown in the Karakorums. Tse Ring Dorji, Ben Ba Drashi and Renar are three elite climbers from the China Tibet Mountaineering Association who are now on the final phase of their quest that will take them in the elite ranks of the select few that are given the status of icons in the alpinism.

Sam Drug leader of the expedition is the key figure in the team as it was him all the way that coached and trained the members when the quest for the 8000ers begin in 1993. A happy and excited man Sam Drug is thrilled to be on the last peak, which is comparatively a moderate mountain in the list of 14 8000ers.

“Its good to be here and I feel great the climbers are in good shape and we as a team used oxygen only on two peaks Everest and K-2,” said Sam Drug adding, “Safety is always first and my members are important.” Loze member in the team has climbed 12 of the 14 high peaks and is one behind the others. “We are here as it’s a team effort and none in the world as a team have gathered up with commitment the members and the resources,” said Phur Bu Tsering associated with the expedition as logistics incharge, speaking for the leader in his exclusive talks with Pakistan Observer.

He said, “We wanted to prove the world that China is a force in the world and now we are on the last step of the ladder with not one but three making a giant leap we can look the alpinism circles that yes we did it.” “The main team with the four climbers and three other climbers are part of the training string of CTMA,” said Phur Bu Tsering adding, “The team is strong and motivated and all are excited as they will be accorded a heroes welcome when then made the summit in middle or possibly end of July.” “It was dream that Sam Drug had and the quest started in 1993 and Dhaulagiri was first in the series and in the 12 years time the peaks submitted to the tenacity of the Chinese climbers which was unmatched all the way.”

Tse Ring Dorji is the climbing leader of the expedition and with bulk around his waist he said, “I will reduce it all there as it climbing time.” Two Pakistani climbers are also in the team, which is a joint expedition, Nisar Hussain and Nazir Hussain and the two have climbed four 8000ers each in Pakistan. Other team members are Da Shi Tsering (3 8000ers), Ban Ba Dhundrup (2 8000ers) and Phu Bhu Dhundrup (4 8000ers) Xue Wen Xian is the secretary with the team and Zhou Xing Kang is technical support. The expedition is taking the traditional route and will be having base camp at 5000 meters.

Norwegians first on K-2

2005-05-20T12:17:00.000+05:00

By Asem Mustafa Awan

Islamabad --- Six committed Norwegians will be leaving for K-2 on Saturday to make the first ascent for their country and is the first expedition for the peak in 2005 which is the second highest in the world with 8611 meters.

Thirty-year old Rolf Bae having climbed Cho Oyu in 2003 is leading the side and the ace climber in the lot is 30-year-old Cecilie Skog who is the first Norwegian woman to have summated Everest (North with Oxygen) and Cho Oyu in 2003. “We planned for it for a long time and only one of us has been to Pakistan before and that is Trym Saeland who came in 1999 and 2001,” said Rolf. “We are just going to the mountains and we are taking not unnecessary risks, we are carrying oxygen but it’s for emergency use only.”

The expedition has climbed in nearly all the mountain ranges of the world and team leader Rolf holds the distinction having done an unsupported ski traverse of 3800 kilometers from Dronning Maud Land to Mc Murdo in 105 days in Antarctica. “It was long time we stayed there 17 months in all in the cold,” said Rolf.

The expedition members have plans for making the summit bid in middle of July or late depending on weather and snow conditions. “It all depends on weather and snow conditions as twice in the past I attempted Shishapagma but avalanche hazard and weather stopped me both the times for making it to the summit,” said the 30-year old adding, “We are there as the mountain is there and we wont push our luck as we can always comeback for the mountain as its not leaving.” “Its first all Norwegian expedition and the team is in great shape and we are all very excited to be here.”

The team is taking the South South East Spur and plans to fix minimum of ropes on the mountain that has a little over 100 making it to the top. “It was our dream peak and we planned for it for some years the inspiration was Trym Saeland (30) who has been here before and shared details of the region that attracts climbers from all over the world.”

Trym attempted Latok in 2001 and also was also here in 1999 climbing the unnamed peaks in under 6000 meter category. Sigurd Felde (33) and Oystein Stangeland (35) are the other two members of the team and Per Henry Knudsen is the Base Camp Manager. The expedition will make Base Camp at 5000 meters and is expected to make the summit bid in middle of end of July. The expedition leaves on Saturday (today).

Swiss Team Leaves for Nanga Parbat Mazeno Ridge

2005-05-12T14:50:00.000+05:00

Asem Mustafa

ISLAMABAD—Three-member Swiss Nanga Parbat expedition will leave capital on Friday (today) to vie for first Swiss ascent via Mazeno Ridge on the peak, which offers the highest unclimbed traverse in the world.

Elite Swiss alpinist Jean Troillet (57) is leading the three-member team and all of them have prior experience of climbing in Pakistan.

Jean attempted the Nanga Parbat 8125 meters in 2000 from the same route, the unclimbed Mazeno Ridge but came down from 7000 meters finding the weather and snow conditions inhospitable. “This time I want to be on the summit as I came in Pakistan in 2003 and 2004 and my attempts on Broad Peak and the two Gasherbrums were unsuccessful as weather and snow
conditions on both occasions were not good and involved risk.”

In 2004 American expedition attempted the same route and the US team reached Mazeno Peak at 7100 but then came down exhausted via Shell Route. “It’s a long walk and US team took five days before turning back and we also planned the summit and coming back within five or more days,” said Jean adding, “The option is with us as we decide to make the descent from any side and it would be fun.”

Jean Troillet has eight 8000ers to his name and he has been planning for the peak when he first came for K-2 in 1985 and he has made all ascents Alpine Style and is widely respected name in the alpine circles of the world. “We will climb in Alpine Style and we will train good for acclimatization,” said Jean adding, “We will make an upper Base Camp at 4700 meters approximately followed by a high camp that will have a mattress and stove between 6900 meters and 7100 meters depending on snow conditions and we will make a push for the summit from there.” Jean climbed K-2 8611 meters in 1985 that was also the first Swiss ascent on the peak and followed it in 1987 and 1989 from the West Face for two unsuccessful attempts.

His other summits are Everest North Face Tibet side 1986, Cho Oyu and Shishapangma 1990, Makalu West Pillar 1991, Lhotse 1994, Kangchenjunga 1995, Dhaulagiri First Winter Ascent East Face 1995. All of his climbs are in Alpine Style. Claude Alain Gailland (32) is the second member of the team with a new route on Trango Tower in 1999, 6B A3 and third member is Fredrick Roux (30) who also made the summit of Trango with Claude in 1999. Fredrick has cleared grades up to French 8B.

“Snow and weather plays the most important role and last year there was no snow and this year there is too much of snow,” said Jean adding, “We will see as we reach the mountains.” He was particularly happy about absence of Liaison Officer that is termed in alpine circles the ‘Prisoner of Base Camp’ there is no LO this year and the changed ministry rules are good and its very helpful for expeditions and we hope it continues as in lesser the paperwork.”

“The previous two years were unsuccessful ones and I hope to change it this year and also Nanga Parbat is growing a centimeter and half so I have many centimeters to climb more that would make seven and half centimeters more,” added Jean. The expedition plans its summit bid in end of June.