Czeck Nanga Parbat and K-2 Expedition

By Asem Mustafa

ISLAMABAD --- Two elite Czech climbers have landed in Pakistan and have set their sights on two of the world most difficult mountains Nanga Parbat and K-2. The two climbers are part of the six member multinational team, which have members coming from Nepal and other parts of the world. The two Czech climbers aspires to make second ascent on the new route made by French Alpinist Jean Christophe Laffaile in 2003 on Diamir Face in 2003.

Radek Jarosh 41 and Peter Mashek 35 have planned to take on both the peaks falling in two big moun-tain ranges of the world. Nanga Parbat 8125 meters is called the Killer Mountain and is in the Himalayas and K-2 the world sec-ond highest peaks with 8611 meters is in Karakorum Range and is called the Savage Mountain. It is the third attempt for the two Czech climbers on the Savage Peak K-2, they made attempts on the peak from South South East Spur and from South East Abruzzi Ridge.

“We attempted K-2 in 2001 and in 2003 in 2001 we spend a night in a biouvac at 8000 meters and it was very cold and very bad weather while in 2003 we just managed 7400 meters and came down as the conditions were not good for climbing,” said Peter.

Czech climbers also holds unique distinction as they are friends of climbing great Josep Rakoncaj who is an inspiration for them as he is the only climber in the world who has climbed K-2 twice, once from Pakistan and second time from China side without using oxygen.

A Nepalese also holds the same dis-tinction but he used oxygen in making it to the summit second time from the same route in Pakistan. The two men team ended the quest of 14 8000ers for Czech Republic in 2004 when they climbed the South Face of Shishapangma in Alpine Style taking three days up and two days coming down.

“We will be climbing Nanga Parbat first and we have given our self the month of June for the attempt and then we move to Skardu for K-2 Project,” said Peter adding, “We have divided equal time for the two peaks as we wanted to do both and K-2 is our dream peak.” “We have plans to make the summit bid on Nanga Parbat in end of June as we follow Jean Christophe Laffiale Route that joins the Kinshofer Route at 7000 meters,” said Peter adding, “K-2 we will attempt from Basque Route South South East Spur and it will be late July and early August depending on the weather window.” “This year there is too much of snow so we will see and Nanga Parbat would be a challenge as the route we take has not been touched by climbers and we like the way its is and on K-2 we will see as by the time we reach the Base Camp, there will be expeditions there.” “We hope that we make ascent from Basque route and descend via Abruzzi Ridge,” said Peter.

Radek has five 8000ers summits to his name and they include Everest 1998, Kangchenjunga 2002, Broad Peak 2003, Cho Oyu Spring 2004 and Shishapangma Autumn 2004. Peter has two summits to his credit, which he climbed with Radek, and they are Broad Peak in 2003 and Shishapangma in 2004. The expedition leaves for Base Camp on Thursday (today). Other members in the team who will join at different stages include climbers from Georgia, Latvia, Switzerland and a Frenchman.

China One Step Short of Himalayan Crown

By Asem Mustafa Awan

Islamabad --- They are three and together they will hoist the China flag in top of the Gasherbrum I, 8068 meters and that will mark an end to their quest of Himalayan Crown in the Karakorums. Tse Ring Dorji, Ben Ba Drashi and Renar are three elite climbers from the China Tibet Mountaineering Association who are now on the final phase of their quest that will take them in the elite ranks of the select few that are given the status of icons in the alpinism.

Sam Drug leader of the expedition is the key figure in the team as it was him all the way that coached and trained the members when the quest for the 8000ers begin in 1993. A happy and excited man Sam Drug is thrilled to be on the last peak, which is comparatively a moderate mountain in the list of 14 8000ers.

“Its good to be here and I feel great the climbers are in good shape and we as a team used oxygen only on two peaks Everest and K-2,” said Sam Drug adding, “Safety is always first and my members are important.” Loze member in the team has climbed 12 of the 14 high peaks and is one behind the others. “We are here as it’s a team effort and none in the world as a team have gathered up with commitment the members and the resources,” said Phur Bu Tsering associated with the expedition as logistics incharge, speaking for the leader in his exclusive talks with Pakistan Observer.

He said, “We wanted to prove the world that China is a force in the world and now we are on the last step of the ladder with not one but three making a giant leap we can look the alpinism circles that yes we did it.” “The main team with the four climbers and three other climbers are part of the training string of CTMA,” said Phur Bu Tsering adding, “The team is strong and motivated and all are excited as they will be accorded a heroes welcome when then made the summit in middle or possibly end of July.” “It was dream that Sam Drug had and the quest started in 1993 and Dhaulagiri was first in the series and in the 12 years time the peaks submitted to the tenacity of the Chinese climbers which was unmatched all the way.”

Tse Ring Dorji is the climbing leader of the expedition and with bulk around his waist he said, “I will reduce it all there as it climbing time.” Two Pakistani climbers are also in the team, which is a joint expedition, Nisar Hussain and Nazir Hussain and the two have climbed four 8000ers each in Pakistan. Other team members are Da Shi Tsering (3 8000ers), Ban Ba Dhundrup (2 8000ers) and Phu Bhu Dhundrup (4 8000ers) Xue Wen Xian is the secretary with the team and Zhou Xing Kang is technical support. The expedition is taking the traditional route and will be having base camp at 5000 meters.

Norwegians first on K-2

By Asem Mustafa Awan

Islamabad --- Six committed Norwegians will be leaving for K-2 on Saturday to make the first ascent for their country and is the first expedition for the peak in 2005 which is the second highest in the world with 8611 meters.

Thirty-year old Rolf Bae having climbed Cho Oyu in 2003 is leading the side and the ace climber in the lot is 30-year-old Cecilie Skog who is the first Norwegian woman to have summated Everest (North with Oxygen) and Cho Oyu in 2003. “We planned for it for a long time and only one of us has been to Pakistan before and that is Trym Saeland who came in 1999 and 2001,” said Rolf. “We are just going to the mountains and we are taking not unnecessary risks, we are carrying oxygen but it’s for emergency use only.”

The expedition has climbed in nearly all the mountain ranges of the world and team leader Rolf holds the distinction having done an unsupported ski traverse of 3800 kilometers from Dronning Maud Land to Mc Murdo in 105 days in Antarctica. “It was long time we stayed there 17 months in all in the cold,” said Rolf.

The expedition members have plans for making the summit bid in middle of July or late depending on weather and snow conditions. “It all depends on weather and snow conditions as twice in the past I attempted Shishapagma but avalanche hazard and weather stopped me both the times for making it to the summit,” said the 30-year old adding, “We are there as the mountain is there and we wont push our luck as we can always comeback for the mountain as its not leaving.” “Its first all Norwegian expedition and the team is in great shape and we are all very excited to be here.”

The team is taking the South South East Spur and plans to fix minimum of ropes on the mountain that has a little over 100 making it to the top. “It was our dream peak and we planned for it for some years the inspiration was Trym Saeland (30) who has been here before and shared details of the region that attracts climbers from all over the world.”

Trym attempted Latok in 2001 and also was also here in 1999 climbing the unnamed peaks in under 6000 meter category. Sigurd Felde (33) and Oystein Stangeland (35) are the other two members of the team and Per Henry Knudsen is the Base Camp Manager. The expedition will make Base Camp at 5000 meters and is expected to make the summit bid in middle of end of July. The expedition leaves on Saturday (today).

Swiss Team Leaves for Nanga Parbat Mazeno Ridge

Asem Mustafa

ISLAMABAD—Three-member Swiss Nanga Parbat expedition will leave capital on Friday (today) to vie for first Swiss ascent via Mazeno Ridge on the peak, which offers the highest unclimbed traverse in the world.

Elite Swiss alpinist Jean Troillet (57) is leading the three-member team and all of them have prior experience of climbing in Pakistan.

Jean attempted the Nanga Parbat 8125 meters in 2000 from the same route, the unclimbed Mazeno Ridge but came down from 7000 meters finding the weather and snow conditions inhospitable. “This time I want to be on the summit as I came in Pakistan in 2003 and 2004 and my attempts on Broad Peak and the two Gasherbrums were unsuccessful as weather and snow
conditions on both occasions were not good and involved risk.”

In 2004 American expedition attempted the same route and the US team reached Mazeno Peak at 7100 but then came down exhausted via Shell Route. “It’s a long walk and US team took five days before turning back and we also planned the summit and coming back within five or more days,” said Jean adding, “The option is with us as we decide to make the descent from any side and it would be fun.”

Jean Troillet has eight 8000ers to his name and he has been planning for the peak when he first came for K-2 in 1985 and he has made all ascents Alpine Style and is widely respected name in the alpine circles of the world. “We will climb in Alpine Style and we will train good for acclimatization,” said Jean adding, “We will make an upper Base Camp at 4700 meters approximately followed by a high camp that will have a mattress and stove between 6900 meters and 7100 meters depending on snow conditions and we will make a push for the summit from there.” Jean climbed K-2 8611 meters in 1985 that was also the first Swiss ascent on the peak and followed it in 1987 and 1989 from the West Face for two unsuccessful attempts.

His other summits are Everest North Face Tibet side 1986, Cho Oyu and Shishapangma 1990, Makalu West Pillar 1991, Lhotse 1994, Kangchenjunga 1995, Dhaulagiri First Winter Ascent East Face 1995. All of his climbs are in Alpine Style. Claude Alain Gailland (32) is the second member of the team with a new route on Trango Tower in 1999, 6B A3 and third member is Fredrick Roux (30) who also made the summit of Trango with Claude in 1999. Fredrick has cleared grades up to French 8B.

“Snow and weather plays the most important role and last year there was no snow and this year there is too much of snow,” said Jean adding, “We will see as we reach the mountains.” He was particularly happy about absence of Liaison Officer that is termed in alpine circles the ‘Prisoner of Base Camp’ there is no LO this year and the changed ministry rules are good and its very helpful for expeditions and we hope it continues as in lesser the paperwork.”

“The previous two years were unsuccessful ones and I hope to change it this year and also Nanga Parbat is growing a centimeter and half so I have many centimeters to climb more that would make seven and half centimeters more,” added Jean. The expedition plans its summit bid in end of June.