Swiss Team Leaves for Nanga Parbat Mazeno Ridge

Asem Mustafa

ISLAMABAD—Three-member Swiss Nanga Parbat expedition will leave capital on Friday (today) to vie for first Swiss ascent via Mazeno Ridge on the peak, which offers the highest unclimbed traverse in the world.

Elite Swiss alpinist Jean Troillet (57) is leading the three-member team and all of them have prior experience of climbing in Pakistan.

Jean attempted the Nanga Parbat 8125 meters in 2000 from the same route, the unclimbed Mazeno Ridge but came down from 7000 meters finding the weather and snow conditions inhospitable. “This time I want to be on the summit as I came in Pakistan in 2003 and 2004 and my attempts on Broad Peak and the two Gasherbrums were unsuccessful as weather and snow
conditions on both occasions were not good and involved risk.”

In 2004 American expedition attempted the same route and the US team reached Mazeno Peak at 7100 but then came down exhausted via Shell Route. “It’s a long walk and US team took five days before turning back and we also planned the summit and coming back within five or more days,” said Jean adding, “The option is with us as we decide to make the descent from any side and it would be fun.”

Jean Troillet has eight 8000ers to his name and he has been planning for the peak when he first came for K-2 in 1985 and he has made all ascents Alpine Style and is widely respected name in the alpine circles of the world. “We will climb in Alpine Style and we will train good for acclimatization,” said Jean adding, “We will make an upper Base Camp at 4700 meters approximately followed by a high camp that will have a mattress and stove between 6900 meters and 7100 meters depending on snow conditions and we will make a push for the summit from there.” Jean climbed K-2 8611 meters in 1985 that was also the first Swiss ascent on the peak and followed it in 1987 and 1989 from the West Face for two unsuccessful attempts.

His other summits are Everest North Face Tibet side 1986, Cho Oyu and Shishapangma 1990, Makalu West Pillar 1991, Lhotse 1994, Kangchenjunga 1995, Dhaulagiri First Winter Ascent East Face 1995. All of his climbs are in Alpine Style. Claude Alain Gailland (32) is the second member of the team with a new route on Trango Tower in 1999, 6B A3 and third member is Fredrick Roux (30) who also made the summit of Trango with Claude in 1999. Fredrick has cleared grades up to French 8B.

“Snow and weather plays the most important role and last year there was no snow and this year there is too much of snow,” said Jean adding, “We will see as we reach the mountains.” He was particularly happy about absence of Liaison Officer that is termed in alpine circles the ‘Prisoner of Base Camp’ there is no LO this year and the changed ministry rules are good and its very helpful for expeditions and we hope it continues as in lesser the paperwork.”

“The previous two years were unsuccessful ones and I hope to change it this year and also Nanga Parbat is growing a centimeter and half so I have many centimeters to climb more that would make seven and half centimeters more,” added Jean. The expedition plans its summit bid in end of June.