Czeck Nanga Parbat and K-2 Expedition

By Asem Mustafa

ISLAMABAD --- Two elite Czech climbers have landed in Pakistan and have set their sights on two of the world most difficult mountains Nanga Parbat and K-2. The two climbers are part of the six member multinational team, which have members coming from Nepal and other parts of the world. The two Czech climbers aspires to make second ascent on the new route made by French Alpinist Jean Christophe Laffaile in 2003 on Diamir Face in 2003.

Radek Jarosh 41 and Peter Mashek 35 have planned to take on both the peaks falling in two big moun-tain ranges of the world. Nanga Parbat 8125 meters is called the Killer Mountain and is in the Himalayas and K-2 the world sec-ond highest peaks with 8611 meters is in Karakorum Range and is called the Savage Mountain. It is the third attempt for the two Czech climbers on the Savage Peak K-2, they made attempts on the peak from South South East Spur and from South East Abruzzi Ridge.

“We attempted K-2 in 2001 and in 2003 in 2001 we spend a night in a biouvac at 8000 meters and it was very cold and very bad weather while in 2003 we just managed 7400 meters and came down as the conditions were not good for climbing,” said Peter.

Czech climbers also holds unique distinction as they are friends of climbing great Josep Rakoncaj who is an inspiration for them as he is the only climber in the world who has climbed K-2 twice, once from Pakistan and second time from China side without using oxygen.

A Nepalese also holds the same dis-tinction but he used oxygen in making it to the summit second time from the same route in Pakistan. The two men team ended the quest of 14 8000ers for Czech Republic in 2004 when they climbed the South Face of Shishapangma in Alpine Style taking three days up and two days coming down.

“We will be climbing Nanga Parbat first and we have given our self the month of June for the attempt and then we move to Skardu for K-2 Project,” said Peter adding, “We have divided equal time for the two peaks as we wanted to do both and K-2 is our dream peak.” “We have plans to make the summit bid on Nanga Parbat in end of June as we follow Jean Christophe Laffiale Route that joins the Kinshofer Route at 7000 meters,” said Peter adding, “K-2 we will attempt from Basque Route South South East Spur and it will be late July and early August depending on the weather window.” “This year there is too much of snow so we will see and Nanga Parbat would be a challenge as the route we take has not been touched by climbers and we like the way its is and on K-2 we will see as by the time we reach the Base Camp, there will be expeditions there.” “We hope that we make ascent from Basque route and descend via Abruzzi Ridge,” said Peter.

Radek has five 8000ers summits to his name and they include Everest 1998, Kangchenjunga 2002, Broad Peak 2003, Cho Oyu Spring 2004 and Shishapangma Autumn 2004. Peter has two summits to his credit, which he climbed with Radek, and they are Broad Peak in 2003 and Shishapangma in 2004. The expedition leaves for Base Camp on Thursday (today). Other members in the team who will join at different stages include climbers from Georgia, Latvia, Switzerland and a Frenchman.